Castle Valley Utah climbingSpring in Moab means rock climbing.  As the desert warms, Moab and Indian Creek prepare for an onslaught of excited rock climbers.  If you are seeking warm weather climbs this Spring, here are a few local favorites:

  1. Jah Man (5.10+) This climb is a true Castle Valley treasure.  It has every type of climbing, from chimneys to technical face, from hand cracks to brief interludes in the thinner stuff.  Not to be missed!
  2. Fine Jade (5.11) Fine Jade may be considered one of the best lines in the desert.  It, too, varies significantly.  However, it is rare to get to follow the same crack system bottom to top.  Be prepared for all sizes on this gem!
  3. The Three Penguins, Right Chimney (5.10+) Another fun, varied route! Be sure to research raptor closures before climbing this beautiful desert tower!  It ends in an exciting offwidth to chimney adventure.

If you are seeking sunny fun, without the exposure:

  1. The Sunshine Wall- This is a beautiful, remote feeling wall.  There are several slab routes ranging in all difficulty levels.  This is a perfect place to stop if you want to get a few quick pitches on your way toward 70, out of town.
  2. Wall St to Ice Cream Parlor Shuffle-  Wall St. offers a wide variety of climbs, from slab to crack, from fun face to terrifying technical crimp moves on fragile rock.  Wall St has morning to midday sun.  Make your way to Ice Cream Parlor to end the day on sunny, south facing walls and brush up on your slab climbing.
  3. Maverick Buttress- Maverick Buttress offers several intermediate crack climbs with a stunning view of the La Sal Mountains.  Maverick Buttress receives early morning sun.  Please be mindful of bringing dogs to the Buttress during lambing season.


Of course, Indian Creek offers many South facing walls.  Wherever you go on your visit, please remember to be respectful of our gentle ecosystem.  Stay on the approach trails, pack out your waste, and respect other users.  It is especially important to remember that climbing on wet sandstone is not only dangerous, it degrades and erodes the rock.

Click HERE for a full list of Leave No Trace ethics for rock climbing.